"Send a salami to your boy in the Army," reads the worn sign hanging in Katz's, the cacophonous, confusing but delectable deli on the Lower East Side. Not much has changed here since the turn of the century: Grab a ticket at the door, wait in the scrum of lines to place your order with the gruff countermen—and please don’t try to eat the whole pastrami sandwich in one sitting.
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